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Palm Springs, CA - A desert oasis
Palm Springs is a pretty unique place, a must-visit for fans of mid-century design, desert vibes and great food. A visit to nearby Joshua Tree National Park is one for the bucket list. Worth the 2 hour detour from LA for those seeking a more chilled vibe.
The Ace Hotel & Swim Club
We at Places & Spaces Art Co. HQ were thrilled to learn that UK to USA travel is back on the agenda! We often talk about how our travels to America inspired our art prints business and we cannot wait to return. Now seems like a good time to revisit one of our favourite US destinations; Palm Springs.
Stunning mid-century homes are commonplace in Palm Springs.
Find these dazzling homes in E. Sierra Way
The Ace Hotel & Swim Club
This Californian city is an oasis in the Sonoran desert, best known for it’s hot springs, mountain views, stylish hotels and mid-century architecture. It’s also a scenic 1 hour drive to the spectacular Joshua Tree National Park. During our second California road trip, we spent three nights at the Ace Hotel & Swim Club in downtown Palm Springs; a stunning homage to mid-century style, with glorious suites, a fantastic pool (with plenty of sun loungers) and spa.
Welcome!
Awaiting refreshments after the 2 hr drive from LA.
We found October to be a very good time to visit Palm Springs. The heat is not as intense as the summer months, and although a very hot 30c in peak afternoon heat, the evenings have rather cool temperatures. We had some problems with our booking; on our first night our standard double room was next door to another couple with a very young baby, whom they were having a lot of trouble getting to sleep. We felt for them, but needed some sleep! So on that first night, we requested a room transfer which the management were more than happy to oblige with. It was late and the room seemed fine, bigger than the original even, so we dumped our bags and crashed. The next morning we were awoken by the sweet sound of construction works. A look out of the window showed that we were facing a building site, which was also far from ideal. A quick word with the management led to us being upgraded to the Ace Suite - a huge room with a double bathroom (dual sinks!) and outdoor patio. This was a huge upgrade, so fair play to them.
*Tip: This hotel is rather busy at weekends, with regular DJs and live music events drawing in a party crowd. If you are able to visit midweek, you’ll get much cheaper rates and a better choice of rooms.
The Ace Suite.
Poolside.
Onsite is the Kings Highway Roadside Diner - a true slice of Americana. The food is typical Californian; great burgers, tacos, every type of eggs, pancakes along with healthier lighter bites and the stylish decor is just like the diners you see in the movies. The poolside menu comes from the same kitchen.
Kings Highway Diner @ The Ace Hotel
Pancakes with maple syrup, fruit (and ice cream!?)
A more refined roadside diner.
Delicious Fried Chicken Burger (when in Rome…)
Joshua Tree National Park
During our limited time in Palm Springs, one day trip we were certain of making was to Joshua Tree National Park. From afar, this desert has seemed like a mythical land - another world from the grey, urban environment of London.
The familiar sight of wind farms en route to Joshua Tree NP.
By the entrance to the park.
A relatively short (less than an hour), scenic drive through desert highways from Palm Springs, Joshua Tree NP is a spectacular landscape of mountains, desert and iconic Joshua Trees. The park has defined roads and pathways to enable visitors to get around the various points of interest. Although very sunny and warm in the sun, temperature was surprisingly cool, making us feel a tad under-dressed.
The geology in the park is incredible.
Did you know… There isn’t just one Joshua Tree - there are thousands!
You can pickup a map from the visitor centre to help you find your way around the points of interest in the park, but the most spectacular is surely Keys View. When you make your way to the top of the trail you are greeted with breathtaking views of Coachella Valley - an unforgettable moment.
Parking at Keys View.
Stunning views of Coachella Valley from Keys View.
We could have spent longer than the couple of hours we did at Joshua Tree however, we had a dinner reservation that evening at the highly recommended Rooster and the Pig in downtown Palm Springs.
Waiting line cropped out of shot!
A tasty Vietnamese style salad
This Vietnamese-American fusion restaurant has just the right amount of options on the menu, with most plates designed to be shared. The food is delicious and the ambience is carefully balanced between hip cantina and family restaurant. The drinks menu has a nice selection of cocktails, imported/local beer and a variety of teas. When you’re staying in a great hotel, it’s tempting to hunker down for the duration, but it is definitely worth venturing out for a bite to eat and a drink in town.
House Hunting
A trip to Palm Springs is not complete without exploring the neighbourhoods. The quiet palm tree-lined streets with beautiful mid-century homes aplenty. Head to E.Sierra Way (a few minutes drive) and be prepared for serious house envy!
Cabazon
Our last night (Friday) at the Ace Hotel was pretty lively, with live bands and DJs performing, drawing in a party crowd of non-guests who are able to use the hotel facilities for a resort fee. Observing a young American party crowd was quite the experience, although with a long drive to the coast scheduled for the next day, we decided to call it a night and let them get on with it. We set off for our next stop; Santa Barbara, but not before passing through Cabazon where dinosaurs roam - one for kids of all ages!
Palm Springs is a pretty unique place, a must-visit for fans of mid-century design, desert vibes and Joshua Tree NP is one for the bucket list. Worth the 2 hour detour from LA for those seeking a more chilled vibe. Read destination guide on Santa Barbara here.
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48 Hours in Santa Barbara
In this first Destination Guide, we focus on the beautiful Californian city of Santa Barbara. Includes how to get there from LA, where to stay and reviews of some of the best places to eat and drink.
The thing that inspired us to start Places & Spaces Art Co. was our shared travel experiences. More specifically, our California road trip in 2015 provided the ‘lightbulb moment’ for us to begin designing our own travel prints, upon our return to London. So it seems natural to document our passion for travel and our travel experiences over the years, in this blog. Among the points of interest covered will be food, hotels, nightlife and shopping, along with practical information such as travel routes, restroom stops, weather and money.
Stearn's Wharf, Santa Barbara, CA
In this first travel blog post, we focus on the resplendent Santa Barbara, California. During our three-week California road trip in 2015, it was Santa Barbara that ticked practically all of the boxes for a great vacation; sunshine, great beaches, fantastic restaurants, beautiful architecture and a vibrant bar scene. We sampled all of this during a two-night stay, but in hindsight we’d have like to have stayed longer, as there is plenty to enjoy. This blog offers some suggestions of what to do, where to eat, where to get drinks during 48 hours in Santa Barbara.
Getting There
Pacific Highway 1
We drove from Santa Monica along Pacific Highway 1 via Malibu and Ventura, to our hotel on Castillo Street, which is close to Santa Barbara harbour, Stearn’s Wharf and State Street. Driving time was around 1 hour 30 minutes, so you can probably add another 30-60 minutes if driving from LAX airport, depending on traffic of course. If you are not in a hurry and sea views are your thing, we’d recommend stopping at some of the several view points along Highway 1 and drinking it all in. If, like us, you are from a city such as London it is worth enjoying this stunning stretch of coastal California as the views are unlike anything we have in the UK. If you are travelling North and plan to go beyond Santa Barbara, it’s worth noting the views get much more spectacular and dramatic as you approach Big Sur. We will discuss this in detail in future blog posts. It’s also worth mentioning that, if you are travelling North, you will be on the right-hand side of Highway 1, making it slightly trickier to stop at vista points on the left-hand (coastal) side of the highway. Be safe if crossing the road! There are a number of gas stations between Los Angeles and Santa Barbara if you need to fill the tank.
Pit Stop: Malibu
We stopped at Malibu along the way as we were in no particular hurry and were curious to take a look around this ‘celebrity haven’. We parked the car at the Malibu Country Mart; an upscale, outdoor mall, which has a range of high-end brands and boutique shops, along with an outdoor seating area and restrooms. It was pleasantly quiet, so we had a stroll around some of the shops, sat and had a juice, whilst watching the natives walk their designer dogs. There is also a gas station here. Across the Highway is the entrance to Malibu Lagoon State Beach, one of the few strips of beach in Malibu that is not private access. It wasn’t particularly busy apart from a few college students and surfers, though it was a Thursday. It was a very hot day so it was nice to dip our feet in the sea, but there are plenty more beaches to enjoy along coastal California, so it’s not especially worth stopping in Malibu for the State Beach.
Arriving in Santa Barbara
Prior to Santa Barbara, Highway 1 drifts inland slightly through Ventura County and although not as scenic, it’s not bad as far as highways are concerned. This is only a short part of the drive however, and it isn’t long before Highway 1 joins Highway 101 and steers back to the coast for the rest of the journey. You will realise when you have arrived in Santa Barbara when the palm trees become perfectly aligned along the promenade and the buildings have a regal, Spanish charm. A nice first impression.
Where To Stay
As one of California’s most desirable destinations, Santa Barbara is not a cheap place to stay, generally speaking. There are a number of upper-mid range hotels in the State Street area (the main drag of restaurants, bars, shops) which may cost around £150+ per night. A few blocks away, on Castillo Street, are several motel-style Inns which are a bit more reasonable in price (£100-150 per night) and allow for a comfortable stay with no frills.
As we had spent a bit more on hotels in other legs of our trip, we opted for The Lavender Inn, which is located around a 10-15 minute walk from the harbour/beach area and a similar distance to State Street.
In fairness, the standard of rooms is more ‘hotel’ than ‘motel’, with decent amenities, though a little old-fashioned in terms of décor. It has plenty of onsite parking which was included in the room rate (no expensive valet here) and a decent-sized, unfussy swimming pool for guests. The reception staff were very friendly and helpful, with drinks and homemade cookies available for guests in the waiting area. Overall, The Lavender Inn is a decent, comfortable base from which to explore Santa Barbara on foot or by car. Down by the promenade between the Harbour and Stearn’s Wharf, in front of the beach the pavement is decorated with beautiful mosaic tiles and statues of marine life. This is probably the most ‘touristy’ destination as Stearn’s Wharf and Santa Barbara harbour are home to the Sea Center, boat hire and water sports, restaurants and souvenir shops. The beach in this area is known as West Beach. It is convenient, but as it is close to the harbour, the water is not actually that clean. There are better beaches along the coastline in either direction, but it’s decent option within walking distance of State Street and the main town. State Street and the adjacent ‘Funk Zone’ district are the primary destinations for dining, shopping and nightlife.
Food & Nightlife
Santa Barbara is well-known for it’s food scene, with a wide range of options from fine dining to taco shacks. We made sure to research some options prior to visiting, as we knew we wouldn’t be able to eat everything in two days! With it’s own harbour, it’s a given that fresh seafood is a feature in many restaurants. Below we list a selection of places we ate, in no particular order, highlighting any star dishes and things to note.
Lunch: Brophy Bros. Santa Barbara Harbor
Or just ‘Brophy’s’ to the locals, is located on the harbour. The seating is on the upper deck with some tables outside allowing for views of the Santa Ynez mountains across the harbour, where you can watch fishing boats bring in the latest catch. We went here for lunch and were lucky enough to get a table outside. There is a large ‘Clam Bar’ inside, where patrons can sit and order fresh seafood as well as drinks.
Brophy Bros. specialise in fresh seafood so we obviously chose fish options. Corinna chose the seafood linguine and I opted for the Ahi tuna salad. The Ahi was raw, served on a salad of mixed greens, Asian vegetables and a soy dressing. Fresh and utterly delicious. However, this was trumped by Corinna’s linguine which included sautéed scallops and shrimps in a delicious white wine, lemon and garlic liquor. Nothing innovative, but delicious, fresh ingredients and a huge portion (of course, I helped Corinna out). The food was matched by the overall experience. It was a beautiful day, so to be able to sit outside and enjoy the views was a real pleasure. We even saw a fisherman drop off a huge catch of live sea urchins downstairs on the harbour. Had we had longer than 48 hours in Santa Barbara, we would have definitely returned.
Dinner: The Lark, Anacapa St.
We read good things about The Lark before arriving and their emphasis on locally-sourced, responsibly-grown, artisanal ingredients. Located on Anacapa Street, in the heart of The Funk Zone, the premises has a huge outdoor space at the front for al fresco dining. Inside there is a bar area, with several communal bench-tables where customers can drink and dine informally. The dining area has a number of booths and regular tables for a more intimate experience. All beautifully designed with wooden-beamed high-ceilings, the decor is like a modern barn with high-spec fixtures and fittings.
We arrived early for our table and sat at the bar whilst we waited. It was a Saturday night, so the place was buzzing. Most of the clientele seemed to be well-heeled, well-dressed locals of all-ages, but the atmosphere was loose and convivial. The bar staff were friendly and attentive, despite being rushed off their feet. The mojitos were perfect. When we were shown to our table, we were greeted with a complementary basket of popcorn which was deliciously spiced and perfect for grazing-on whilst we surveyed the menu.
To begin we had oysters served with a citrus, vinegary dressing and was a nice palette-cleanser for our mains. We ordered two main courses which were stylishly and carefully plated on sharing boards. First to arrive was the Marinated & Grilled Hanger Steak, served with charred broccoli and crispy shallots. The meat was succulent, cooked perfectly and worked well with the vegetables. The star dish however, was the smoked pork belly served with almond brittle, pickled peppers and chicharron (crackling). The flavour of the pork was unlike any pork dish we’ve tasted; the smokey flavour complimented perfectly by the sweet pickled peppers and salty chicharron. Just mind-blowing. We just about had room for dessert and decided to share the Hazelnut Praline Ice Cream Sandwich; a sea salt brownie served with warm grilled peaches and tarragon. Salty, sweet, sharp, rich indulgence and a perfect ending to a perfect meal. During our three weeks in California, we ate some superb restaurants and sampled some incredible food, but The Lark was probably the best overall experience for ambience, service and imaginative, high-quality menu. Considering all this, it is actually good value with Main courses at around $20. If you are visiting Santa Barbara, make sure you reserve a table at The Lark.
Drinks: Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. Anacapa St.
Also on Anacapa Street is this craft brewery, with a large selection of locally brewed beers, some found only in the Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. tap rooms in this part of California. This busy bar has a large college crowd, with a classic rock and pop music selection (I Want It That Way - Backstreet Boys never sounded so good). The bar staff were young but clearly very knowledgable about their product, allowing you to taste before buying. They have their own range of merchandise on sale here, including caps and hoodies, which may seem like a good idea after a few beers...
Drinks: Reds Bar & Tapas, Helena Ave.
Across the street from Figueroa Mt Brewing Co. is this small bar, set back from the street with a few tables and chairs outside. This is one of the few bars we came across which allows smoking (even for bars with outdoor spaces this is rare in California), if that's your thing. Inside is a great selection of cocktails, beer and spirits. It was fairly quiet when we visited, which meant we were served quickly and could enjoy their alternative 80s music. Open until 1am, this was a good place to finish the evening.
Breakfast: D’angelo’s Bread, West Gutierrez St.
Just off State Street is this little gem which is popular with the natives. It has few tables on the sidewalk which were in demand, but luckily for us we arrived just as a table was free. This is clearly a favourite with the natives and their range of breads, pastries, omelettes, eggs, cereals and waffles is extensive. We had some delicious coffee and poached eggs with toast, followed by fresh pastries. A great way to start the day and shake off that hangover.
Summary:
48 hours in Santa Barbara is long enough to fall in love with the place, but maybe not long enough to stay. It has everything we look for in a destination; great weather, picturesque mountain scenery, beaches, divine food, a creative community and a buzzy bar scene. The next time we visit, we will stay longer and make sure we enjoy more of what Santa Barbara has to offer.
